Philippine Travel: Lost in Laoag

The best thing about domestic traveling is you get to realize that no matter how similar you think you are with fellow Pinoys, there will always be differences---and those differences need not always be bad. In fact, they can even be enriching to one’s life. And this was my experience visiting Laoag, Ilocos Norte.

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

I have been to some lighthouses before but never one made of bricks that adds to its 19^th century romance and mystique. Be ready to climb (and climb) flights of stairs to get to the top and “scramble” for the best camera angles with other tourists.

Kapurpurawan Rock Formation

Photo Courtesy of Keeping Traces

Anybody who doubts the existence of a Divine Creator might start rethinking when he sees the different white limestone formations as sculpted by forces of wind and waves from the ocean. On the first photo, from afar, sitting atop a formation reminds me of Noah’s ark. To get up close, you can either walk or rent a horse for P100.

Bangui Windmills

The windmills were atop my must-see list but it still did not prepare me for their bigger-than-life presence. They were certainly more beautiful than I expected. It is just so nice to see something so wondrous that contributes to a city’s tourism industry while serving it with great functionality by providing the province with energy.

Ferdinand E. Marcos Presidential Center

Now of course, one cannot escape the influence of the late president, Ferdinand E. Marcos while visiting his hometown. In fact, most souvenir shops there carry t-shirts that seemed to have been frozen in time pre-1986. At the Presidential Center, we saw his embalmed remains which was dramatically covered in dim lights and monastery-like music. One can’t help but be solemn, no matter what his politics may be.

Entrance Fee: P20

Museo Ilocos Norte

Usually, I frown at the thought of visiting a museum in the province as I have been to some that have disappointed me with their crudeness and, ironically, their lack of art and passion. So I was surprised to see a beautiful museum celebrating the Ilocano heritage that could rival the best museums Manila could offer. And then it hit me: but of course its museum would be beautiful as the former first lady, Imelda Marcos and the first daughter, Imee Marcos, are known for their impeccable taste.

Entrance Fee: P50

Malacañang of the North

If you want to get close to the former first family and how they lived during their heyday, Malacañang of the North is your best bet as it served as their rest house. Inside you can see the rooms where the Marcos children grew up in. The Spanish-Ilocano themed building also houses a museum of Marcos artifacts including the luggage they brought with them when they fled to Hawaii in 1986.

Entrance Fee: P30

Paoay Church

Even before I learned of Paoay Church being a part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, I was already captivated by its proud but quiet elegance standing like a sentinel. It has to be one of the most beautiful old churches I have ever seen which has maintained its old architectural design that dates back to the 18^th century.

Sinking Bell Tower

This created a sinking feeling in me as I missed it during our trip. I didn’t go out with my friends who went to the market and were able to see the famous sinking bell tower. (Drat.) According to VistaPinas.com, “Despite its sinking state (supposedly at a rate of an inch a year), the bell tower still continues its centuries-old purpose of ringing the bell to call Catholic brethren to mass.”

Fort Ilocandia Resort

Fort Ilocandia is the only five-star hotel in Laoag so naturally my friends and I stayed elsewhere and just opted for a day tour. It was free for as long as we limited our ventures. Our guide told us that it was built to accommodate the wedding guests of the former presidential daughter, Irene Marcos to the Araneta clan in the eighties. I am sure the guests were more than impressed with its Spanish-Ilocano architectural design. Nowadays, Fort Ilocandia is being managed by a Chinese company trying to attract casino-lovers from China.

Now we come to the most fun part---what to eat!

Laoag is famous for its bagnet (crispy pork belly), garlic longganisa (sausage), empanada (stuffed pastry), and vinegar.

Bagnet
Copyright photo: M. Diente/PFN

Garlic Longganisa (blue plate)
Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN

Ilocos empanada
Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN

Contents of Ilocos empanada
Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN

You can have all these in one dish with the empanada with its crispy thin wrap that sustains all the flavors of its filling.

It’s been months since my trip to Laoag and I still crave for its empanada. Good thing that there are authentic Ilocos empanadas being sold in Metro Manila.

But what really made our trip in Laoag was this “unfortunately” named eggplant tomato dish called poque-poque or puqui-puqui. To my non-Filipino readers, the first two syllables is the Filipino word for vagina. It was kind of embarrassing for my prudish lips to verbally place my order so I just pointed to its name on the menu. I asked the local if the word meant anything in Ilocano and was told it doesn’t. “Then why not change it?” I wondered in my thoughts and out loud as well. I wish I had found out the story behind the dish and the name….

Poque-poque
Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN

If you want to enrich your life with a Laoag experience as well, here are some things to help you plan:

How to Get There: By Land or By Air

Touring around: Better to have a guided tour with shuttle service as most sights are outside the town proper. Ours cost around P3,000 without meals. Pagudpud and Vigan were not part of the itinerary.

Accommodation: Laoag Renzo Hotel

Mode of Transportation: Tricycle (most common) and jeepneys

Wi-Fi and Mobile Signals: Globe and Smart were reliable

Other Edible Souvenirs: Chichacorn (corn a la pork rind)

-THE PARANOID TRAVELER

Philippine Travel: Lost in Laoag

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