Philippine Travel: Lost in Laoag
The best thing about domestic traveling is you get to
realize that no matter how similar you think you are with fellow Pinoys, there will always be
differences---and those differences need not always be bad. In fact, they can
even be enriching to one’s life. And this was my experience visiting Laoag,
Ilocos Norte.
Cape Bojeador Lighthouse
Cape Bojeador Lighthouse
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| Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
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| Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
Kapurpurawan Rock Formation
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| Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
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| Photo Courtesy of Keeping Traces |
Anybody who doubts the existence of a Divine Creator
might start rethinking when he sees the different white limestone formations as
sculpted by forces of wind and waves from the ocean. On the first photo, from
afar, sitting atop a formation reminds me of Noah’s ark. To get up close, you
can either walk or rent a horse for P100.
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| Copyright Photos: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
The windmills were atop my must-see list but it still did not prepare me for their bigger-than-life
presence. They were certainly more beautiful than I expected. It is just so
nice to see something so wondrous that contributes to a city’s tourism industry
while serving it with great functionality by providing the province with
energy.
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| Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
Now of course, one cannot escape the influence of the late
president, Ferdinand E. Marcos while visiting his hometown. In fact, most
souvenir shops there carry t-shirts that seemed to have been frozen in time
pre-1986. At the Presidential Center, we saw his embalmed remains which was dramatically
covered in dim lights and monastery-like music. One can’t help but be solemn,
no matter what his politics may be.
Entrance Fee: P20
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| Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
Usually, I frown at the thought of visiting a museum in
the province as I have been to some that have disappointed me with their
crudeness and, ironically, their lack of art and passion. So I was surprised to
see a beautiful museum celebrating the Ilocano heritage that could rival the
best museums Manila could offer. And then it hit me: but of course its museum
would be beautiful as the former first lady, Imelda Marcos and the first
daughter, Imee Marcos, are known for their impeccable taste.
Entrance Fee: P50
If you want to get close to the former first family and
how they lived during their heyday, Malacañang of the North is your best bet as
it served as their rest house. Inside you can see the rooms where the Marcos
children grew up in. The Spanish-Ilocano themed building also houses a museum
of Marcos artifacts including the luggage they brought with them when they fled
to Hawaii in 1986.
Entrance Fee: P30
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| Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
Even before I learned of Paoay Church being a part of the
UNESCO World Heritage List, I
was already captivated by its proud but quiet elegance standing like a sentinel.
It has to be one of the most beautiful old churches I have ever seen which has
maintained its old architectural design that dates back to the 18th
century.
Sinking Bell Tower
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| Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
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| Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
Fort Ilocandia is the only five-star hotel in Laoag so
naturally my friends and I stayed elsewhere and just opted for a day tour. It
was free for as long as we limited our ventures. Our guide told us that it was
built to accommodate the wedding guests of the former presidential daughter,
Irene Marcos to the Araneta clan in the eighties. I am sure the guests were
more than impressed with its Spanish-Ilocano architectural design. Nowadays, Fort
Ilocandia is being managed by a Chinese company trying to attract casino-lovers
from China.
Now we come to the most fun part---what to eat!
Laoag is famous for its bagnet (crispy pork belly), garlic
longganisa (sausage), empanada (stuffed pastry), and vinegar.
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| Bagnet Copyright photo: M. Diente/PFN |
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| Garlic Longganisa (blue plate) Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
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| Ilocos empanada Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
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| Contents of Ilocos empanada Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
You can have all these in one dish with the empanada with its crispy thin wrap that
sustains all the flavors of its filling.
It’s been months since my trip to Laoag and I still crave
for its empanada. Good thing that
there are authentic Ilocos empanadas being sold in Metro Manila.
But what really made our trip in Laoag was this
“unfortunately” named eggplant tomato dish called poque-poque or puqui-puqui.
To my non-Filipino readers, the first two syllables is the Filipino word for
vagina. It was kind of embarrassing for my prudish lips to verbally place my
order so I just pointed to its name on the menu. I asked the local if the word
meant anything in Ilocano and was told it doesn’t. “Then why not change it?” I
wondered in my thoughts and out loud as well. I wish I had found out the story
behind the dish and the name….
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| Poque-poque Copyright Photo: The Paranoid Traveler/PFN |
How to Get There: By Land or By Air
Touring around: Better to have a guided tour with shuttle
service as most sights are outside the town proper. Ours cost around P3,000
without meals. Pagudpud and Vigan were not part of the itinerary.
Accommodation: Laoag Renzo Hotel
Mode of Transportation: Tricycle (most common) and
jeepneys
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| Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
Other Edible Souvenirs: Chichacorn (corn a la pork rind)
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| Copyright Photo: M. Diente/PFN |
-THE PARANOID
TRAVELER
I have gone to Laoag in the past few weeks and was surprised by its appeal. It included Such things like going to the historic churches and even going up the sand dunes every place felt like a discovery. Also, I got some really affordable airport rides which made moving around even easier!
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