Philippine Travel: Captivating Capiz

“Roxas?! What in the world are you going to do there?!”

That was the only reaction I got from almost everyone upon learning I was going to Roxas, Capiz for a weekend.

“I’m going for the seafood, what else?” Although I said it in jest, it was actually my only motivation. I kept hearing about Roxas being the seafood capital of the Philippines and being a seafood lover, I was looking forward to gorging on prawns and oysters if nothing else. But Capiz, like its famous oysters, held such wonderful secrets—if only one would be patient enough to uncover them.

First stop was the ancestral house of President Manuel Roxas on Rizal Avenue, Roxas City. Should you find yourself wondering what else you know about him other than gracing our P100 bill, there’s a commemorative plate to help in the recall.

The funny thing about looking for the Roxas house was people kept pointing my friend and me to the other famous Roxas, the grandson. We had to drawl carefully each syllable of the president’s first name before the locals pointed us to the right direction. When we finally found it near the plaza, it was closed. The caretaker was on vacation, we were told by a neighbor. We returned the following day and was told by the same neighbor who recognized us that the caretaker was once again away although he or she did return immediately after we left the previous day. Drat. I just had to settle for a second-hand experience through other blogs.

Our next stop was the Church of Sta. Monica and its museum in Pan-ay, Capiz. Like the Roxas house, the museum was closed because of some repairs that still needed to be done courtesy of Typhoon Yolanda. I was now close to frustration. So we headed to its neighboring church.

Fronting the museum was Capiz’s most famous attraction inside the Pan-ay Church.

Like all Spanish-era churches, the Pan-ay church was beautiful but we were more excited to see its pride—the nine bells in the belfry and we almost didn’t get to see it because the guide was on a break. Luckily, he was just nearby and was kind enough to accommodate us, walk-ins.

After climbing a steep flight of 63 steps, we were overwhelmed by the presence of nine gigantic bells with the biggest of them all in the center which was still functioning. According to our able guide, Randy, the bells were made from coins donated by the townsfolk back during Spanish colonial times.

Names, images and Spanish phrases are etched onto the bells.

While climbing the steps, our guide confessed about gaining weight ever since he took on the responsibility of being the bells’ tour guide.

“Gained weight? How?” I asked seeing that he had to climb the steps more than once a day surely, if not everyday.

He said he felt justified in eating a lot after each climb.

It was nice to see someone so dedicated to his job with his sense of humor still intact.

Randy was not only a good tour guide but he took it upon himself to be our photographer and creative director pointing my friend and me to the best camera angles. He even leaned too close to the steps that I told him to be careful. He thanked me for my concern adding that I was the only tourist not to express concern for their camera.

Now, if you have vertigo or are not up to climbing the 63 steps, there is a cement replica of the bell at the lawn of the Sta. Monica church.

There is no entrance fee to see the bells but a tip to Randy would be nice.

A few blocks from the church was Weny’s Garden which houses a butterfly garden and a lot of animals including a monkey and a civet cat---yes, that cat that can charge hundreds of pesos for its poop for a cup of gourmet coffee although that was not part of the offering.

Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by Weny himself. Before taking us to the butterfly garden, he asked if we could spare a few minutes to listen to an orientation about raising a butterfly garden. We said we don’t have plans to start one but he said it was easy to do and we might want to consider it during our retirement days when we buy a property in the province and operate a resort. I didn’t even know I was planning on opening a resort.

But because Weny was so insistent and sweet about it, we agreed and were treated to a fascinating seminar on botany, zoology and ecology in just 10 minutes. As Weny spoke, I could feel that it was his heart talking to us. We could feel his passion, sincerity and pure love for the environment.

He showed us the different phases of a butterfly’s life as well as samples of plants that attract butterflies to start a farm. I won’t go into all the details as I want you to experience the same thing my friend and I did listening to Weny.

I love what he said about how important birds were to our ecology. He said that birds were the only animals that could go inland and airborne. While inland, they eat the worms including the caterpillar, then they fly to other places where they relieve themselves. The droppings contain seeds that will give life to other plants thus in a way, replenishing and extending greenery wherever they go.

Weny also has a fish spa where small fish nibble your dead skin away. I am just glad that the fish did not turn away from our feet nor go belly-up afterwards!

To augment the operations of the farm, Weny also runs a humble souvenir shop made from---what else but butterflies? He said that dying butterflies are caught for preservation and ornaments. Butterflies that fly low are in their last breath. He laminates them and sells them as cellphone accessories, earrings and key rings for P50-65 only.

At first, I was not impressed with how the garden looked as there seemed to be no landscaping thought given to it until I discovered that it was ravaged by Typhoon Yolanda. As funds are tight (entrance fee is only P20), Weny has to rely on donations. “The screen surrounding the farm was just donated, otherwise there wouldn’t be any at all,” he said.

After our visit, my friend searched the Internet for what Weny’s looked like before Yolanda and it was totally different from what we saw. I had to admire Weny for pressing on with his advocacy without feeling sorry for himself. He said he approached the government for help but was told that his farm did not qualify. I don’t know what that means but I do hope that you, my dear readers, if you ever find yourself going to Capiz, please visit his farm.

When you’re done visiting Capiz, go straight to Roxas City’s most famous hangout, Baybay beach where there are rows of seafood restaurants to entice you. But when we asked for recommendations from different locals, they were all unanimous with their answer---Coco Veranda.

They do serve red and white meat but when you’re in the seafood capital of the country, why bother? They don’t even list their seafood in their menu; they ask you to go to their freezer storage and choose which ones you like.

We chose butter garlic prawns.

Steamed oysters.

Baked scallops.

Grilled squid.

And this is our total bill---which includes iced tea, fresh fruit juice and of course, rice that we were not able to finish.

This is the ambience.

And this is the view.

Roxas has so many oysters that they have other uses for their shells.

Another famous Roxas restaurant is RML Manukan. More than seafood, I love chicken especially grilled chicken and RML’s tender and juicy inasal did not disappoint at all. We ordered liempo (grilled pork belly), rice and fresh mango shakes as well which left us with a bill of only P300. I will get fat and spoiled if I stay in Roxas for a week!

For those with a sweet tooth, drop by Spanggo for its famous buko pie. Laguna has nothing on Spanggo!

My friend did not wait for me to photograph the pie….

If you want some pasalubong, bring home some dried seafood especially Roxas’ crispy palad (“thin”) which is similar to daing but not as salty. Just make sure you check that in because they’re not allowed in hand-carry bags.

It’s easy to get around Roxas with its abundance of tricycles.

You just have to make sure you know the distance or the fares. If there’s one thing that tainted my trip is the Manila-like attitude of some of the drivers where they refuse to name their fare, leaving it up to you. Fed up once, I blurted out, “If I will decide how much I will pay, I will just pay you P5.00!” And then the driver charged me the appropriate amount. This Manila-type attitude can go both ways, too, buddy!

-THE PARANOID TRAVELER

Travel Notes:

Where to stay: UrbanManor Hotel
Cellphone signal: Excellent and consistent for both Globe and Smart

4 comments:

UnknownAugust 22, 2014 at 7:32 PM
Great Sharing! I am impressed after reading your blog. You shared nice pictures. After reading your blog I must go there after completing my New York Vacation with my elder sister. Your shared pictures are very helpful for me to find these places.
Juan CarlosSeptember 5, 2019 at 9:13 AM
My favorite is grilled squid and shrimp. This is my next tour destination
Giovanni CarloDecember 15, 2019 at 8:51 PM
This comment has been removed by the author.
Giovanni CarloDecember 15, 2019 at 8:53 PM
The souvener butterflies looks like anting anting or agimat in tagalog he he

lumina pagadian city

Philippine Travel: Captivating Capiz

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